![]() Finally, it is optimal to have the 12V power cable hard-wired under the console – check the oval bracket and Mark’s install video!įirst-generation of D4 – all of them have them. Unscrew 4 screws, remove the backside (or whole case), push the power plug through the bracket’s hole and screw the controller directly on the base part or insert the controller into the base+cover and screw it all together. Installation: This is a “full backside” bracket, designed to replace the controller’s backside (base variant) or full case replacement (the base + cover variant). The cover is one part model, print it upside down. Place the small part – blue in the picture – into the main one, is it a controller circuit board. When printed, remove the red supporting ring (small pliers will do) from the main part. The model is designed to be printed without any support. Print the main part upside down as in pictures. Both look very nice, the final choice is up to you. In either variant, the bracket is designed to align the top plane of the controller with the rest of the vehicle console. Alternatively, you can also print the cover part and replace the whole controller case. You can do a base only – replace only the backside part of the controller’s case. The final result is a clean-looking and tidy install. The bracket “foot” height is about 2 centimeters, making the controller top surface align with the console (so the bracket is about 1 cm buried). There are left and right versions of this bracket. The bracket fills a whole “key box” around the edges, no small stuff falling beneath anymore. The 12V plug is right next, making potential hard-wiring of the power wire easy. Some people have the XLifter controller just there. The “key box” placed next to the gear shift knob/stick is an excellent spot.
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